GW1 Method

As i have been busy following NDCs GW1 method and nearing the final calcination to produce the grey ashes and extract the salt from it , I started thinking whether the 23K Gold leaf i have is good enough to melt with my salt to produce our most precious medicine ? Would 24K be better option ?
All suggestions welcome and I especially would love to hear some inputs from those of you who tried the GW1

Hey Edgar—

Good to see you are working on a process. Any pics would be great…

Only use pure gold 24K or you will not get anywhere. It must be completely pure from other metals. Any base metal contamination will ruin all your hard work, so even the 5% with 23K gold is way too much. It must be very pure and completely uncontaminated otherwise there will be interference and no glass forms in the crucible. I buy certified 4 nines bullion and make it into a calx, using oil of tartar to charge it with additional fire. Nic’s solar sulfur that has been released seems like a good prep for the gold. As for using it again, don’t reuse the Au bead without first re-purifying as the gold has to be pure to “open” to create the red glass and after a run, it can get bound with all sorts of stuff, especially organics. It must be natural and untouched or very pure and uncontaminated to work.

Leaf is a really expensive way to buy pure gold and is usually dusted to keep it from sticking, so I don’t use it but I know it has a tradition of use--just make sure it is only pure gold…I’m not even sure how you easily “weigh out” portions of leaf to match the salt ratio? 100% pure leaf should disintegrate in your hand and smear into your skin or else it has some other metal in it.

To purify: put it in AF on heat, nothing should dissolve and no color should be transferred into the liquid. Filter the clear liquid off and you can treat with salt or HCL to get any silver back. The gold can then be dissolved in AR and preciped with oil of tartar after neutralizing the Nitric. Rinse, anneal, redissolve in AR and precip again…this results in 99.5% pure and probably good to go, even if you originally had base metal contamination…do it 3 times carefully and you now have close to 99.9% pure which is perfect for the work. Many of the sellers on ebay are pushing stuff that is not pure but claim it is. Salt lake metals sells pure gold dust for about $100/g for anyone who can’t refine it themselves. That is probably about the same price as leaf (or cheaper), easy to weight out and a fine particle size to use directly “as is”.

Take care...

Dear Merc Firstly i like to Thank you from the bottom of my heart for your great advice and guidance on this matter

I bought the leafs from thegoldleafshop.com so i contacted them and they sent me the analysis and the purity is only %97.27 , the rest is Ag 2.27 and Zn 0.454 , so I am definitely not using them and unfortunately i dont have the means to purify it myself so at this stage looks like i will be placing the order with the salt lake metals and as per their website the purity of 99.995%should be Ok ? You are right , its much better and cheaper to use the powder form as the leaf i have even though its 23K when you try to peel it off the paper it just curls up and smears ,the owner also told me that the reason they dont have the 24K is because its very brittle and hard to work with as far as the food preparation concerned . Anyway , the last thing we need is to combine our purified salt with the impure gold . In regards to measuring the weight , i got a digital scale that Weighs up to 10 grams in 0.001 gram increments so that should take care of the weighing part . I will post the pictures of different stages as the time allows and hopefully to a successful completion

Take care and have a great day

Merc,
You said

Quote :

I buy certified 4 nines bullion and make it into a calx, using oil of tartar to charge it with additional fire. Nic’s solar sulfur that has been released seems like a good prep for the gold.

Could you please tell me more about using the oil of tartar to make a calx of gold and "Nic’s solar sulfur"?
also, What do you mean by "AF" when you said "put it in AF on heat"?


Edgarl,
Here's a definition of calx from my notes:

Quote :

The substance which remains when a metal or mineral has been subjected to calcination or combustion by heat, and which is, or may be, reduced to a fine powder.
Substance to which a mineral is reduced by violent heat.

from: http://what-does.net/calx-mean

and:

Quote :

Calx is a residual substance, sometimes in the form of a fine powder, that is left when a metal or mineral combusts or is calcinated due to heat.

Calx, especially of a metal, is now known as an oxide. According to the obsolete phlogiston theory, the calx was the true elemental substance, having lost its phlogiston in the process of combustion.

"Calx" is also sometimes used in older texts on artist's techniques to mean calcium oxide.

Calx is Latin for chalk or limestone, from the Greek ????? (khaliks, “pebble”). It is not to be confused with the Latin homonym meaning heelbone (or calcaneus in modern medical Latin), which has an entirely separate derivation

from Wikipedia

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Quote :

Purple gold (also called amethyst gold and violet gold) is an alloy of gold and aluminum rich in gold-aluminium intermetallic (AuAl2). Gold content in AuAl2 is around 79% and can therefore be referred to as 18 karat gold. Purple gold is more brittle than other gold alloys, as it is an intermetallic compound instead of a malleable alloy, and a sharp blow may cause it to shatter.[7] It is therefore usually machined and faceted to be used as a "gem" in conventional jewelry rather than by itself. At lower content of gold, the material is composed of the intermetallic and an aluminium-rich solid solution phase. At higher content of gold, the gold-richer intermetallic AuAl forms; the purple color is preserved to about 15% of aluminium. At 88% of gold the material is composed of AuAl and changes color. (The actual composition of AuAl2 is closer to Al11Au6 as the sublattice is incompletely occupied.)[2]

from wikipedia
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Quote :

Gold(III) hydroxide, gold trihydroxide, or gold hydroxide is an inorganic compound, a hydroxide of gold, with formula Au(OH)3. It is also called auric acid with formula H3AuO3. It is easily dehydrated above 140 °C to gold(III) oxide. Salts of auric acid are termed aurates.

Gold hydroxide is used in medicine, porcelain making, gold plating, and daguerrotypes. Gold hydroxide deposited on suitable carriers can be used for preparation of gold catalysts.[3]

Gold hydroxide is a product of electrochemical corrosion of gold metalization subjected to moisture and positive electric potential; it is one of the corrosion failure modes of microelectronics. ..

.
wikipedia
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Another quote from Wikipedia:

Quote :

Gold is attacked by and dissolves in alkaline solutions of potassium or sodium cyanide, to form the salt gold cyanide—a technique that has been used in extracting metallic gold from ores in the cyanide process. Gold cyanide is the electrolyte used in commercial electroplating of gold onto base metals and electroforming.

Gold chloride (chloroauric acid) solutions are used to make colloidal gold by reduction with citrate or ascorbate ions. Gold chloride and gold oxide are used to make highly valued cranberry or red-colored glass, which, like colloidal gold suspensions, contains evenly sized spherical gold nanoparticles (see also nanoparticle).[54]

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Also, check this out on using royal water: http://www.tpissarro.com/alquimia/calxsun-e.htm

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In Covenant of Silence Nick mentions using 'gold leaf', 'gold hydroxide', and 'purple or yellow gold hydroxide'.

In this forum somewhere Nick said he used pure 24k 99.99 gold and it worked.

In many of the texts I see that alchemists go to lengths at making the calx of gold or silver.

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To summarize, I think calx of gold can mean any of these:

gold hydroxide, gold oxide, gold leaf, colloidal gold, or simply fine powdered elemental gold obtained using royal water.

How about silver calx?

silver oxide, fine powdered elemental silver obtained via some nitric acid process.


Guys,
What other names/options are out there for calx of gold and calx of silver?


Notes:
1) I dont know if the "purple gold" Nick mentioned is the same as the purple gold-aluminium intermetallic mentioned in the quote above.

2) disclaimer: I am a student, and a recent one at that, so my knowledge on the topic of 'calx' is limited and not hands-on. I hope more experienced brothers will verify or correct what i said above.

Thanks

Pray,

AF is aqua fortis, nitric acid. It dissolves other metals but not gold thus making it good for separating out other metal from gold to purify it. The solar sulfur process Merc is referring to is one of the notes of process that I released from Nick to make "living gold" that you could replace for gold in other paths. As for calxes I think it just means metals in a powder form.

Thanks

The purple gold nic mentions is pure gold hydroxide…all hydroxides, carbonates, oxides, etc. can be considered calx just remember to keep the definition loose as alchemists where not so much technically categorizing for accuracy (like we do today) but trying to explain what they were doing and the results they were seeing. So, don’t get too hung up …bluefloor has the right idea to keep it more open than to close anything off.

Way back when, Nic used to precipitate gold with sodium hydroxide, which produces a dark purple almost black precip on the first round. That is the most basic calx you can make. He kept the terminology “hydroxide” even though he changed from precipitating with the hydroxide ion to the carbonate ion but it is still on the alkaline (base) side but gives a lighter colored precip. Eventually, we all move on to what the alchemists used, oil of tartar (naturally liquefied potassium carbonate) because it passes fire into the precipitate better than other ions. This is why we always prepare it per deliquium to charge it with life force from universal dew. It is better to do it directly then pouring captured dew on it.

Nic’s living gold from solar sulfur produces a version of gold carbonate (like all metal salts precipitated with salt of tartar do). As he was an alchemist, not a chemist, he called it a “hydroxide”…and for our purposes, it is equivalent and chemically it has very similar properties. If we wanted a hydroxide or oxide, we would precip using sodium or potassium hydroxide. The alchemists mostly precipitated the carbonate of metals from acids or used vinegar when going the other direction from a high ph strong base but in both cases, it is was an alkali precipitate. We follow the traditional methods they used because they work the best.

The reason carbonate precips are light colored is because they are more finely divided than the hydroxides nor do they clump like the oxides--as the darker colors usually means you have larger clusters of atoms (bound). This is yet another advantage of oil of tartar, as we want the smallest particle size possible. As we prepare powders smaller and smaller, they come to the stage of “impalpability”, which is the correct size for quick dissolution and penetration and what we are after to make efficient preparations which work quickly.

This calx can then be used with the alkahest to produce the oil of gold needed for the wet way. In the dry way, the fermentation is done “in the crucible” and so we don’t extract the oil for fermentation and simply use the calx as is.

Here is what I did to make this silver calx:

Purchased a bag of pure “oak charcoal” from WM as the starting material as the stuff you make is much more active than lab bought purified chemicals. Extracted with distilled dew. Traditionally, you would start with grape vine, willow, oak or crude tartar but any ash you have been working with would be good material...

Use dew or rainwater to re-crystalize it a few times until pure. You can also use a distillation set-up, filtering each time in-between. Make sure for the final time, it is completely dried out and you have a pure white powder (if you don’t have time, buy the purest lab grade potassium carbonate, which is not as active/firey as the natural made stuff but will work fine). Consider that each point of chemical exchange is a point to pass fire into our subject.

Grind into powder and put in an open wide container--ceramic is best, glass second. I completely avoid plastic. Liquefy per deliquium by putting it out in the moonlight each night.

The tradition is to keep it out of the sunlight since it will be used for the white stone (in this case). After it is completely dissolved, it is good to go but one full lunar cycle or longer is preferred. I like to let it partially dry with the sun in the day and re-hydrate at night, back and forth building “fire” for at least a philo month. Make sure it is well filtered and remains pure. You will have to use glass wool or something similar to filter it as it will chew up anything organic which also takes some of its power. You can leave it covered with a coffee filter which doesn't inhibit this magnet from grabbing dew.

Use this liquid to neutralize and precipitate silver carbonate which happens very high on the PH scale (10-12) with PH12 as ideal. Just make sure you stir and add slowly until it starts to get cloudy and stops precipitating. Take your time as a good precip ph is always a sharp and narrow bandwidth. You don’t need to measure the ph, just go slowly and watch. If you add too much, you will end up dissolving the silver carbonate back into solution. Filter right away then let the solution stand for a day and it is likely that more will precipitate out. Add some pure water or nitric if you over did it. It will usually look like a light tan/yellow powder. If you used a hydroxide, it will be jet black and mostly oxide. Either will work just make sure to always liquefy per deliquium.

Filter and rinse with distilled rainwater or dew until all solution is washed out. Keep it out of light as it is more sensitive than silver chloride is. It will turn more grey and black which is a sign of a pure metal reduction….bad for our purposes at this point, so if it gets too dark, you might have to start over. You will not be able to tell this with a hydrox precip because it will all be so dark already, so it’s a good idea to keep all silver compounds “in the dark” until they are needed.

If lumpy, break it up to a fine power and put it in a scorifying dish. Fused silica is a good inexpensive choice. Put into a kiln and slowly raise to around 1200-1400F, to remove trace organic impurities, as well as, drive off the carbonates (and make a more pure calx). You can stir and let air in and over the course of an hour or 2, it will be turned into a nice white calx with blue hues. A sign of a good “fire” transfer.

This calx is perfect for extraction via an alkahest for the wet method or can be used directly for the kiln method.

Alternatively you could use a blow torch and get the material slightly red but not too hot or you will reduce the material back into silver metal and then you have to start over again. I'm sure you can figure something out.

I start with fine silver (.999) and dissolve in 20% AF at 50C which will happen quickly. Don’t use any more than 2ml of 70% AF per gram of Ag. Precipitate it as soon as it is dissolved as Valentine suggests; otherwise you lose the active sulfur which is absorbed/destroyed by the AF. 24 hours is about the max recommended (Frater/Bartlett) before you start to lose too much of the active ingredients. This is not chemistry, where the timing would make no difference.

Here are the pics of the end material…not silver or the typical color/darkness. Look up silver carbonate & silver oxide and tell me which one looks like this? Technically, it is just silver metal, yet so easy for anyone to recognize that it is different looking than a “vulgar” silver powder.

White as a dove, we have alchemically prepared our “calx” of silver, just hinting at what is inside…

Take care

Hi Edgarl, I'm working this process too.

Right now I'm at the calcination step, but I'm not sure how hot I should get it? I turned my hotplate to about 600F (max) and was not able to turn the substance grey after hours and hours. I notice that the last thing to distill over is some sort of yellowish chemical. It creates a dense white fog in the distillation apparatus that condenses slowly. It condenses into a yellowish liquid with different properties from the spirit that first distills over. The first spirit is a cloudy clear like diluted tea.

some things I wish I had known earlier...
---\"philosophical dew\" foams like mad when boiled. I think there is actually some sort of decomposition of some chemicals in the \"philosophical dew\" when heated. It's basically like the coke + mentos reaction. Color is the same too... If I have a flask of \"philosophical dew\" that's already had the foam "boiled away" so it no longer foams, I block up the one air "port" (?? scientificc term?) with my finger near the receptacle flask, no pressure builds up. However, if more of the putrefied \"philosophical dew\" is added to the boiling solution, this will cause foaming, and also a large amount of gas pressure buildup. If I remove my finger the gas will be released with a hiss. Another thing is that during boiling, especially after addition of fresh putrefied \"philosophical dew\", there seems to be some popping at the bottom of the flask. I wonder if this is the ammon. nitrates?
---To prevent this you can use a filter of some sort (a patch of carbon fiber cloth works well) but a dropping funnel with a 2+ necked boiling flask is ideal.
---I notice that freezing putrefied \"philosophical dew\" will entirely eliminate any foaming whatsoever, but I don't know yet if this kills the spirit. It clarifies the \"philosophical dew\" somehow. Possibly by denaturing some of the proteins that cause the foam? I'll test this later on when I have more resources.
---Have the iciest water you can get circulating through the condenser. You might think plain water is good enough, but a ton of ice makes a huge difference. It accelerates things greatly and you can get 1 drop condensed per second.
--- [SPECULATION] During distillation, I see a lot of people are using lower temperatures because they fear higher temps will kill the spirit. In my opinion, during the first distillation this is entirely unnecessary because the very presence of water will limit the temperature of the solution. Regardless if you boil at 600F or 250F, the temperature of the solution will hover somewhere above boiling (increases as the solute concentration increases). So better to boil as high as you can to save time. You can confirm this yourself with a thermometer. It's only when you get to the phlegm stage that it might become important to use lower temps to preserve a potential spirit since h2o is no longer there to regulate the temperature.
--- Gold powder, not gold leaf. Lots of fake gold leaf sellers and if you try and put it in tubes good luck with that, it sticks to everything. Use gold powder. Easy to handle // measure out amounts with an ear pick.

[[There are two varieties of foam during distillation. I will call one microfoam. That forms first when philosophical dew is boiled. <1cm-1cm diameter. After this subsides you get the second type of foam, which are iridescent and look and behave similar to soap bubbles. 1-2, 3+ CM in diameter. Quite an array of colors. afterwards this subsides too and the solution just looks like blackish water being boiled. I assume this indicates a decomposition of the compounds causing the foam.


If I manage to make an alkahest, I'm going to have this substance sent to a lab for chemical analysis to find out what exactly it is. There's a place just a few miles away that does composition analysis and all sorts of testing. Results will be published.

1. If it proves to be wholly chemical, problem solved. All sorts of chemicals are available for purchase. It's unlikely this would be any different.
2. If there is some sort of life force, no problem. We can animate the chemical since the life force is probably orgone. We can use orgone accumulation devices to charge up salts. Maybe build a giant multiple cloudbuster contraption? Imagine a single packet of the "salt" at the focal point of 10, 20 cloudbusters, blasting orgone at it. Would probably "animate" it quick like.
Salts are chiral, and chiral molecules apparently absorb orgone. Connection? Maybe, maybe not.
We could probably mass produce thsi alkahest.

[I've not reached the alkahest stage yet, so lots of speculation on my part above]

Hi CJ

Although i am no longer following this path , i was able to calcine the salt to grayish color .

Below are the steps i followed ;

1- using an ordinary hotplate and a castiron pan at medium to high settings to get rid of the moisture until the earth is dry and sand like and somewhat blacker..

2- 1-2 hours of further calcination in the kiln at around 400-500 degrees celsius

3- repeat step 2 if necessary...

AND Most importantly keep it under observation at all times as the times and temps i given are approximations from my recollection and you might reach the gray stage faster or later.
In general a slow and long calcination is better than a short and violent one

Edgarl wrote:

Hi CJ

Although i am no longer following this path , i was able to calcine the salt to grayish color .

Below are the steps i followed ;

1- using an ordinary hotplate and a castiron pan at medium to high settings to get rid of the moisture until the earth is dry and sand like and somewhat blacker..

2- 1-2 hours of further calcination in the kiln at around 400-500 degrees celsius

3- repeat step 2 if necessary...

AND Most importantly keep it under observation at all times as the times and temps i given are approximations from my recollection and you might reach the gray stage faster or later.
In general a slow and long calcination is better than a short and violent one

Thanks, I will give that a shot. Were you able to extract a salt from the phlegm, and did it dissolve anything? PM is also fine if you don't want to post about it here.

Yes the salt was extracted but didn't seem to have enough fire to work on the metals , hence there was no dissolving of the gold..

Good Luck

Hi,
You are talking about "The Spirit or Alkahest from Golden Water from a tract by Johannes Isaaci Hollandus 1744" ?
Thanks

Yes, that's the one. Nick's first GW path.

Why the image don't downloaded? Can you explain me please?

You will need to use the icon that says host an image ,its amongst the other menu buttons (on top ) that appear when you make a new post or reply , then once there choose the file option and choose the picture from your computer and say ok and voila

Thanks for explanation and email. I do exactly as I did before when insert others images but now don't work. Click Citer, clean the space, click on host an image, download it from my PC, copy and past to the post body, align center, and put the title, align center again and click Preview. The image don't appear. What happen I don't know.

Host the image somehwere else then use the button on top that looks like a green photo, this button will ask you for the URL where the image lives and will enclose it int an image tag i.e.

Code:

[img] url goes here [/img]

I use photobucket to upload photos then share them here, you can find other services by looking at images people posted here, and click the image and it will open in a new window showing the site and URL the image is at.. otherwise you can right click and depending on your broswer select something like image URL or image properties to see where it lives and that would be another site option for you to use to post images.

photobucket is easy enough, can keep the image private so no one can stumble on to it but you can still share the image using the URL and the img tags here, or the code that photobucket supplies for people who want to share a photo on forums.

Here is the link of the image GW 1 Kaput.
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/86431383

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I distilled the GW in a 2 litre alembic and the spirit distilled dissolves the copper oxide and a little the gold. Is sublimated into de cucurbit of alembic a volatile salt and I don't continue the work because the calcination of kaput exhale a very smell into the whole home but I haven't possibility of do it outside the home.
It is a pity now isn't possible insert the images here same put the link in Host it reject it. I insert many images before from my PC but now I don't know why don't work so I send the links of images of Panoramio.

http://www.panoramio.com/photo/86506888
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/86506857
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/86506801
http://www.panoramio.com/photo/86431430

ummm,

I remember the pics in your free server... How can you work in the
"lab" of rubelius petrinus ???

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